Finger board training focuses on the finger and forearm muscle groups that are critical in rock climbing and bouldering, including:
Finger flexors: These muscles are located on the inside of the forearm and are responsible for flexing the fingers. They include the deep flexor digitorum and the superficial flexor digitorum and are key muscles directly involved in the gripping action
. Palmar longus muscle: located on the front side of the forearm, it participates in the flexion of the wrist and assists in finger flexion, and plays an important role in stabilizing the wrist and enhancing grip strength.
Flexor carpi radialis and carpi ulnaris: These muscles aid in wrist flexion and indirectly support the grip of the fingers, especially in gripping positions that require the wrist to be slightly flexed.
Extensor muscles of the forearm: Although not the main force muscle in direct grip, it plays an important role in maintaining the stability of the fingers and wrists, as well as in post-training recovery and balance of strength. Abductors and metacarpal muscles of the thumb: in particular, the flexor brevis and metacarpal muscles, which are responsible for the ability of the thumb to hold against other fingers, which is essential for specific gripping techniques in climbing, such as pincer grips.
Deep muscles of the wrist and forearm: These small muscles, although small in size, are just as important for fine finger control and grip stability.
These muscle groups can be targeted to enhance their strength, endurance and coordination through different finger plate training methods, such as different grip widths, different suspension times and intensities. In addition, training promotes the adaptive growth of muscle fibers, improves the recruitment efficiency of the nervous system, and makes the fingers and forearms more powerful and durable in the face of difficult climbing routes.