Welcome back. In our last post, we introduced the hangboard: what it is, why it works, and the golden rule of respecting the tool. You know it’s not a toy, and you’re ready to start.
But knowing how to train is just as important as having the will to train. Walking up to a hangboard and randomly hanging until your arms give out is not a plan; it’s a recipe for injury and frustration.
This post is about the how. We’re going to break down two proven training protocols, explain how to track your progress, and show you how to integrate hangboarding into your weekly climbing routine.
The Two Pillars of Hangboard Training
Almost every effective hangboard protocol falls into one of two categories: Maximum Hangs (Strength) and Repeaters (Endurance). They train different energy systems and serve different purposes.
1. Maximum Hangs: Building Raw Finger Strength
Maximum hangs are exactly what they sound like: you hang from a very small edge with a very high level of effort, typically for a short duration. The goal is to recruit as many muscle fibers as possible to generate maximum force.
- The Goal: Increase the maximum force your finger flexors can produce.
- The Protocol (Example):
- Hang for 5-10 seconds
- Rest for 2-3 minutes
- Repeat 4-6 times
- Best For: Climbers trying to send hard boulder problems or powerful, overhung sport routes where each move requires a massive pull on a tiny hold.
- Feeling: Intense, but short. You should feel like you are near your limit on each hang.
2. Repeaters: Building Power Endurance
Repeaters involve hanging for a moderate duration, resting for a very short period, and repeating many times in a row. This trains your ability to maintain a high level of force over a longer period.
- The Goal: Increase the duration your fingers can sustain a sub-maximal grip.
- The Protocol (The Classic 7:3):
- Hang for 7 seconds
- Rest for 3 seconds
- Repeat 6 times (one set)
- Rest for 2-3 minutes between sets
- Complete 3-6 sets
- Best For: Sport climbers working on long, pumpy routes where the crux comes after 20 or 30 moves.
- Feeling: A deep, building burn in your forearms, similar to the end of a long route.
How to Track Your Progress (The Simple Way)
You can’t improve what you don’t measure. For , you need to track three simple variables.
| Variable | What to Track | How to Track It |
| :--- | :--- | :--- |
| Edge Size | The depth of the hold you are using. | Measure with a ruler. Start on a 20mm edge (about the width of a sharpie marker). |
| Added/Removed Weight | How much weight you are pulling up or taking off. | Use a pulley system with weight plates, or a dip belt with a loading pin. |
| Total Hang Time | The duration of your hang. | Use a simple timer or a stopwatch app. |
The Beginner’s Progression:
1. Find Your Baseline: Can you hang from a 20mm edge for 7 seconds with perfect form? If not, use a pulley to remove weight until you can.
2. Start with Repeaters: For the first 4-6 weeks, focus on the 7:3 repeater protocol on a comfortable edge. Do this once a week.
3. Add Volume or Reduce Edge Size: Each week, try to add one repeater to a set (go from 6 to 7 reps), or try moving down to a 18mm edge while removing a little weight.
4. Log Everything: After every session, write down: the edge size, the total weight (body weight + added - removed), the protocol used, and how it felt (e.g., "Easy," "Limit," "Failed on last rep").
Sample Weekly Training Schedule
The most common mistake is hangboarding too often. Your fingers need significant recovery time. Here is a balanced weekly schedule for an intermediate climber (climbing V5/5.12a) who climbs three days a week.
- Monday: Climbing Session (Technique & Volume) – 2 hours
- Tuesday: Rest (Active recovery: light walking, stretching)
- Wednesday: Hangboard Session (Repeaters) – 30 minutes after a thorough warm-up
- Thursday: Climbing Session (Limit Bouldering or Projecting) – 1.5 hours
- Friday: Rest
- Saturday: Outdoor Climbing or Long Endurance Session – 3 hours
- Sunday: Rest
Notice: Only one dedicated climbing hangboard session per week. That’s enough for significant gains in the first several months.
Three Critical Mistakes to Avoid
Even with a good plan, things can go wrong. Here’s what to watch for.
1. Training When Fatigued: Never climbing hangboard after a long, hard climbing session. Your fingers are already tired, and tired tissues get injured.
2. The “Full Crimp” Crutch: It’s tempting to wrap your thumb over your index finger (the full crimp) to hold on longer. Resist this urge. The full crimp places extreme stress on your finger pulleys. Stick to the half-crimp (fingers bent at 90 degrees, thumb resting on the side) for 90% of your training.
3. Ignoring Pain: There is a difference between the "burn" of muscle fatigue and the sharp, localized pain of a tendon or pulley. Sharp pain in your finger is a stop signal. End the session. Take extra rest days. A week of rest now is better than six months of rehab later.
The Long Game
Hangboarding is not a quick fix. It’s a long-term investment. You won’t add a full grade in two weeks. But if you follow a structured plan, track your progress, and prioritize form and recovery, you will see undeniable results in 8-12 weeks.
The holds you once called "impossible" will start to feel like "projects." The projects will start to feel like "warm-ups." That is the power of patient, intelligent training.
So, choose your protocol, grab a timer, and start hanging. Your future self, sending that hard redpoint, will thank you.